A full house today in G-Land Bobby's Surf Camp. 70ish guests after changeover this morning, but still the surf wasn't even crowded, probably because the other 2 camps do not have many guests. Upon first check of the surf this morning at 7am, the surf was 2-3ft and looking like a rest day in preparation for the forecast swell tomorrow. Then at 10:30am when I was taking new guests on Orienation Tour (after showing them my whiteboard which said surf a 6ft board for the 2-3ft surf today) we see a macking 6ft double overhead set come through!! Wow, the swell came super early for once! So now on my Tour I talk about travel insurance and why people should have it, and after that speech a few people who didn't have it already went online and bought some. Wise move in Indonesia and especially G-Land.
So about 12pm I paddled out in the G-Land Surf on my 6'7 which for the first time this season I made into a thruster instead of a quad. The waves were solid 5-6ft mostly Fan Palm and bit of Ledge, breaking rather far up the point, and even had a reverse current running back up to Kongs on the high tide, swinging back to its normal towards speedies direction later as the tide dropped. The nice offshore that blew late morning went more South through the day unfortunately, making the waves more wobbly. Being such a fresh swell didn't help either. Still, I got a sick as barrel I had to pump my board through on my 1st wave, and got a huge 6ft pipeline sized pit on the Ledge that ate me alive, a nice Fan Palms barrel late in my surf, and a bunch of fun walls. Good fun. Ohhhh and I should tell you all that now the water is so much warmer than August! I am a wimp for feeling the cold, and right now I'm wearing boardies and a 1mm wetsuit jacket and I'm just right 🙂
I see the swell on Sunday has upgraded to about 18ft @ 20secs for the peak!!! Thats Waimea Bay styles. Surely it will downgrade. But we shall see...
