September 5th 2009

Thankfully I had an early night last night and had a big sleep, as when I walked down the beach to check the G-Land Surf just after 7am BOOYAAAHHH! I see a solid 8ft set hit the Pad, and I quickly shoot back to the restaurant and scoff down my breakfast. I didn't even realise the swell was coming up so much, a pleasant surprise! Unfortunately the wind didn't come the best through the high tide, it was real South, but still some good 6-8ft sets at Money Trees, and even the odd slightly bigger rearing up on Launching Pads. The swell was a bit raw and without a stiff good offshore, not alot of waves were linking into Speedies so well. But still there was some bombs to be had! I surfed for about 4 hours and enjoyed the size surprise.

After the 1.8m tide at 12pm, just like I tell new guests when the tide drops under a 1.8 don't surf speedies, well I'm not such a hypocrite, so I paddle up to Money Trees, then get a nice long wave to go in on. Unfortunately ANOTHER guest did the same thing as the guy yesterday, dislocating his shoulder. He was surfing Speedies lower than a 1.8m, and fell off, going arm first into the near dry reef. But it appears he has done a posterior dislocation, which is the opposite to normal, so no one can set it back in place, he must get to a hospital. Now here's where it gets tricky! He has no insurance, so let this be a warning to you all that you should get travel insurance whenever you travel!! The chopper is going to cost $6000 USD to get him to Bali tomorrow, and then the BIMC hospital in Bali is going to cost a fortune in fees, I feel sorry for the amount of money he is going to have to spend... Oh yeah, and don't surf Speedies under a 1.8m tide!

Back to the surfing, just before dark there were some smoking sets coming through Money Trees. I tried surfing the Ledge on my 7'8 and ended up snapping it in 2. Gutted. But better my board than my body for sure!

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