G-LAND ...
September 25.
All's well when swell rounds into the point. And all is better when we can see it breaking out there. The signs are there. Early morning marine layer has been giving up it's stronghold on what is happening out front, each day passed now and about 30 minutes get subtracted from the morning's invisibility. The water is warming up more and more. It's getting clearer too. The winds are less variable. And so, we're starting to come back to what feels a little more better...
Sets up to 2x overhead on the good one's and a little puff of offshore at around 2 to 3. Money Trees working. Some Ledge...Fan Palms...and naturally Kongs was alive. Even some Inside Launching Pad. But the wind wasn't strong enough to turn the downreef session into a tube riding session. I took the 9'8" for a paddle out the boat channel and down to 20-20's...real good fun.
September 26.
By 7:30, I could easily see what was happening with the surf. And not too much of it standing up on the reef either. Probably about 6-8 foot faces...and now that i give thought to it...6-8 foot faces is not too bad at all. But the form wasn't so good from what I was looking at. Real fast and sectioning. Upreef would have been better for the early session with the middle tide helping out. A couple of guests took the 9'8"s out and the stand-up got out there too. I eventually coerced myself to try out the SUP once more, the first time at Red Island and that didn't last too long before i ditched the paddle back on the beach and arm-paddled the 30" wide whale. So I made a connection why it's so popular...for fitness. Still have not made a connection with it being more fun than what i would call...for the lack of a better way to put it...normal surfing. But standing up does give a better sight of what's coming in from outside and the reef is real nice to look at from that vantage point too.
SO.....by 11:30...the OFFSHORE was up. The pathway out to the front was raining leaves. I haven't seen that since we had that window of intense offshores about 2 weeks ago. I really do hope for good winds to remain...warm water...and of course....swell.
--MICHAEL
