G-LAND ... Every one that had the foresight to get up with the sun and go for a surf, going against the normal MO for the G-Land morning time approach, came back with stories of 'sickness.' And considering how the past few days have been with real variable winds, their stories were all believable. Everyone went all over the place. Straigh out front, up reef, 20-20's, Tigertracks. I didn't see the ocean until about 8:30, but it was already starting to go onshore. By 10:30, the onshore was up, strong enough to make any feeling for surfing fade, and replacing it with hope for a glass-off sunset session.
So with the wind being the dominant force to focus on, I went into the back, cut up an old snapped board and shaped up a wind vane. We've had a few up front, but they disappear after a few months. It's not difficult to figure out which way the wind is pushing the leaves, clouds, bodyhairs, or wavespray, but it's nice to have that visual right at the beach, spinning exactly when the wind does. Anyways....
I somehow almost forgot to write about the more important piece...a new swell came in sometime between sunset and sunrise. Low tide Bombora sets...even sets breaking out there on mid-tide. So somewhere about 12-16 foot faces and unfortunately it was another day like yesterday, meaning it could have been something real quality if the offshore was working. But there were still some interesting waves.
Money Trees was working the best. As the tide slowly rose, closing in on sunset, Launching Pad began to collect some swell. I never really hung down there long enough to know what was going on, but a small crew were on it. I can imagine a few hollow one's spun down the reef, but maybe tricky to negotiate through the lumps. But the main peak at Moneys was pushing up some double-ups every 30 minutes. One set in particular came in that was bigger than the rest and rattled off about 10 waves, most of them looking like they would run the entire section at Moneys. It was great to see that one come in.
BREAKING THE TREND...the water is getting there, just about. 1st day not wearing the suit, just a vest. All was feeling good except for the 1 lull that went on for about 40 mintues. I started to get the chicken skin reaction. The best way to put it though would be....the water is warm with some cold spots. Not like before where it was just cold!!!
--MICHAEL
