G-LAND ... And the water continues to warm up BUT you're gonna STILL wanna bring a wetsuit. Something like a spring suit at least. The water is about 70 (21) degrees...I seen 2 guys trunking it.
Covered in fog once again, i was being teased by the light onshore carrying the crack and roar of swell breaking along Money Trees. Once it lifted by about 9:30, i could clearly see that my imagination went beyond the reality of things and filled in the foggy canvas with reeling, well overhead lines running through Moneys. I know better than to trust the sound of swell drafting onshore, but it's fun to get high off of imagining things.
But a new swell DID come in and Moneys came alive after a 3 day hiatus. Light offshore winds today (yesterday as well) and the difference is so very noticeable. The difference being that catching the wave happens a lot easier instead of the wave catching you when it's blowing stiff offshore. Dropping in blind, getting incorporated into the lip and really getting nailed hard since you can't see how you should position your body for the fall (remember you're still blind) was "the usual" on those last days of real strong winds and having at the Ledge. I didn't wanna put the blame on anything else but myself, but today made me feel better. Things felt more in sync and natural on the drops. We had a long run of real strong offshores which equated to some real hollow waves!!!
Kongs through Money Trees today, about 10 foot faces on the good sets and super smooth surface conditions. Rippable up top and pittable through Moneys and the short Ledge session that went on.
About a week ago, I wrote about putting up some photos up and it's gonna happen. Just collecting some good ones...very slowly.
--MICHAEL
