September 15th 2011

G-LAND ...   BRING     A      SPRING SUIT       SHORT-ARM FULL     or even a     FULL SUIT      2mm   maybe even a 3/2 if you really want to be warm.  Grab one of your old holed-up full suits and you'll be stoked.  Cut off the arms and legs when the water warms up...BECAUSE IT WILL!!!

Second day in a row that we had no options but to surf the sentinel section of the reef, that section which watches over us and our deep desires to surf any day that we want to EVEN if there's no real swell in the ocean.  And the amount of fun it was just doesn't make sense.  Only because of the amount of swell on the prediction.  If you put any other wave in Indonesia on a balance scales opposing tray, Kongs and Fan Palms would probably easily outweigh the contender.

6-10 foot faces upreef and once more a reminder to me about how much i like those sections.  It's tough to venture up there when Money Trees or Speedies is alive, but  i'm happy for the reminder.  So next swell that's lining up downreef, i'm gonna head up there and surf alone.

It was an interesting morning...conditions alot like southern california in june/july where a heavy marine layer sits on top of the coastline, blinding us from seeing anything until the sun can burn apart all the moisture.  It was probably around 10 o'clock when we could start to see the waves along the reef.

--MICHAEL

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