Violated!!! This is what happened to me in my lunch time surf at Money Trees today in G-Land. 6-8ft chunky sets coming in with a not quite right Trade blowing a bit south, and with these non-stop sets breaking up Kongs & Fan Palm (which you couldn't surf because of the current) creating a gay current all day running down the entire point. Despite that, there was the odd sick one that would offer a big barrel. Late morning I witnessed a bit of the Dr Phil Chapman & Matt Doebell show, as they scored a few sick tubes each.
Back to my G-Land Surf violation, I finally caught a wave that allowed me to set up a big stand-up barrel, but near the end the lip did a head-chopper on me and I got violently flogged, losing a bootie, and then proceeding to get 10 big waves on the head that got progressively gnarlier as I got swept into Launching Pads where it climaxed with one hell of a scary 8ft frothy double up landing right in front of me. Luckily I never thumped the reef. I just let the inside speedies whitewashes float me up on to the reef, and then slowly made my way across the low tide reef feeling completely humbled and deflated.
Late afternoon I had another try, the swell had eased to 5-6ft and there were about 15 guys doing the paddle-a-thon on Money Trees. Fun enough waves, a little chilly though in my wetsuit jacket and boardies. A good reminder for all you readers who might be coming to pack some neoprene in preparation for cold currents. One of G-Land Bobby's Surf Camp guests Charlie Q is celebrating his 60th birthday tomorrow in G-Land! Yeow!! He scored some super fun 2ft 20/20's to himself this morning as well.
