September 12th 2011

G-LAND ... It's feeling a little bit repetative now, this being the 4th day straight where the surf conditions have been really similar.  It's not a thing of negativity at all, only realizing that it's typically the exact opposite of this repetative nature.  Meaning....the only thing consistent about the waves here from 1 day to the next seems to be that the level of quality is high and it's the character of each day that changes.  Even on the same swell.

So this 4-day swell has been coming straight in at the same angle...228 degrees from the prediction...and it's been hitting the same sections of the reef with the same wave form at the same times (gotta add the adjustment for the progessing tides each day), at about the same size, with the same amount of stiff offshores, with the same COLD WATER, and about the same number of surfers.  I don't have a memory of this kind of mechanical tendency out here at all.

All that expressed and I'd narrow it down to 1 prime focal point...the Ledge has had waves for these 4 days now.  Money Trees again lining up well and challenging everyone to draw their guns first and get into the wave before it fires off its own kill shot.  A lot of people experiencing those few moments of peace before they get pounded from going over with the lip.  It's probably the bodysurfer that has the best advantage to get into the wave, but not too sure about what they could do with it once it starts piping downreef at the speed of  FAST. 

MOST IMPORTANT...bring rubber that would keep you comfortable in 68 (19) degree water with a very chilled wind chill.

--MICHAEL

 

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