September 12th 2009

Victory at Sea!! Was one comment I heard from a guest this morning and it was appropriate for the G-Land Surf... maxing 12-15ft sets on the outter bombies were creating one helluva big current through the line-up, and big lumps coming through not even wanting to barrel or peel nicely. Ugly bumps and sections flopping all over the place. Although a stiff trade blew all day, it didn't help much in this big macking west swell with a neep tide.

Most of G-Land Bobby's Surf Camp guests went down to 20/20's and surfed fun 3-4ft waves on the left, although most people didn't report back that they got overly excited by these waves. Those who tried to surf the fickle right got fickled of getting good waves, as that didn't work so well. But the lefts weren't too bad, could get a couple of turns in. I didn't even surf, but checked it and seen Norris ripping up the lefts.

My body must have been tired from the past couple days of surfing my brains out, as I slept for 10 hours last night then 3 hours again in the afternoon. Was keen to try Money Trees today but it really would have been a waste of time and my body didn't need the extra paddle-a-thon! Tomorrow supposed to be even bigger here in G-Land, but different swell direction, more south, so hopefully Chickens and Quiksilvers will light up...

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