October 30th 2011

G-LAND ... tzzzzzzzzzz    tsssssssssssssss    tzzzzzzzzzzzzz     tsssssssssssssss   that's the best way i can come up with what breathing in and out would sound like.   4:45 in the morning and i'm making a real effort to continue staying awake after my alarm dings off.  It's easy to get used to waking up whenever you want to out here so using an alarm is a struggle for me.  BUT i know it's gonna be worth having a look at the early dawn conditions out front.  And today we're taking a different approach to checking the South Coast out.  The tide is too low to use the boat so we're going for a walk.  And the idea of such excites me enough to keep breathing in the idea that "right now" the day is starting.

Off we go...3 Dutchies (Jan, Emile, and Egbert...the first 2 have been making a solid effort of coming back to G-Land a couple times each year) and 1 Aussie (Mister Limo).  The walk is worth the effort alone.  If there's surf then all the better....it would be like getting a free plane ticket and then the check-in agent bumps you up into one of those stylin recliners up front.

The surf was ok...not good, but just ok.  Definitely enough power to enjoy being out there.   The peak was definitely better than the reef pass.  Limo and i went the extra distance to the pass and sat most of the time under the trees fringing the beach.  We paddled out, caught about 2 waves and had Alan, who just arrived with the dingy, take us back up to the peak.  Compared to the pass...the peak was MUCH BETTER.  About head high on the sets, maybe just a little bigger...mostly running right and some for a good 100 yards.  The water was a little lumpy, but nothing bad.  It actually was going back and forth between lumps and being clean.  I took off on another express check of some other waves with Alan and came straight back to the peak.  We all surfed for another hour or so and decided it was time to feed Alan since he hadn't eaten anything since 4:30.

It was about 11 when we motored past G-Land and it was small.  Very clean, nice offshore blowing and perfect to ride a longboard.  So today makes it the 9th day of small waves.  That's a good length of time for it to be like this.  I'm curious to see what happens when the pendulum swings to the other side.  Ahhhhhhh.....or maybe this is the swing from those 7 days of nice swell we had just before this flattish period of time.

--MICHAEL

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