G-LAND ... Read up and use this as a reminder if for nothing more than...yup...a friendly reminder. Out here, there's always a lot of surf talk spanning big stretches of our time. Normal right since that's why we're hanging in this particular jungle...to surf...but not just to surf any class of wave. This is a HIGH CLASS collection of waves. And it's easy to expect some high class story talking. Some story talking is about the past...a ride or wreck "i had" or one "i saw you get." Some stories orginate in the moment, usually born of a simple yet very tangible appreciation of a wave or ride we're watching right there and then. And then there is the story talking that focuses on the future. I'm not a futurist. Can't really put my mind on something too far ahead in time and create a feeling for it. Planning...that's usually the result.
If i could choose between talking about what the swell is supposed to do tomorrow and NOT EVER talk about it again...too easy...snap of my finger, a raised hand and a wave goodbye and i'll be happy to wake up fresh the next morning and have no expectations of "what it's supposed to be like." Or talk to people with those curiousities or expectations. It doesn't bother me, just seems worth nothing since we are all here already, waiting for the presents to arrive. We're not going anywhere. Maybe you wanna extend and hedge your bet by checkin magicMEweed. I can understand that very easily. It does cost a bit of money to be here. But it's only a hedge to the intial desire of extending with the hopes of getting some better quality surf. Not a guarantee...
Bondan (aka. Mike Tyson) and i have a joke about the forecast. He asks me what the surf is gonna be like tomorrow at 11:15 and knows that i'll suggest we need to ask god about it and since he's a more metaphysically connected individual than myself, he commits himself to the deed. The closest tree or even just a peice of wood is the conduit, always linking his right hand cupped over his ear with the direct "redline" to god. AND NO JOKE...he's always right on. Whether it's surf, the wind, water temp, fish, or some natural element of life. But we're not trying to seed our joke as a new venture into psychic readings of any sorts...
There was a reminder in all of this. That's how this entire key-punching expression started...a reminder that the involvement with swell prediction is something that spins people out. And this is just my observation.
Last swell prediction showed a significant enough swell coming to us...8 foot at 16 seconds coming from 222 degrees, which for here is a lot of W in the swell. True SW is 225 degrees. So the friendly reminder is this...remember that swell predictions can and will be wrong. Better to not get emotinally attached to them. Instead of waking up and seeing the Bombora capping on the morning lowtide and Fan Palms and the Ledge going off from the predicted 222 degree swell, we got into some classic Launching Pad into Speedies. Pretty seamless too. Unexpected, surprised, and a swell that if it was forecasted, there would have been many many more surfers out here. You should see the photos!!!
Truly though, the photos are coming soon.......
And the water is still slowly warming up. It's difficult to say what the temp really is, but a jacket is still probably the call for better comfort. I've been back and forth between just trunks and a vest...
--MICHAEL
