G-LAND ... Good winds, well overhead surf and a very uncrowded lineup would be the simplest way to paint the picture. This is a special time to be out here and i keep giving thanks for the good winds that have been keeping the season alive. And once again i'm full of hope that the winds keep blowing westward. The past 2 days have been roasting everything organic really well, sucking the moisture right out of it...more specifically US. Gotta surf with a shirt on for sun protection midday otherwise the sun will drain every bit of energy out of you on a long session. Yesterday, my 3 hour session ended up slumping my body over my dinner like i had surfed for 6 straight hours and skipped lunch.
So today, G-Land was serving up Money's, Fan Palms, and Kongs. Tigertracks would've been fun too, but not 1 soul ventured down there. Winds blowing smoothly and consistently from early on...like 8 in the morning. And as the tide rose up to a 3 o'clock high of 1.6 meters, the sets followed the deeper water down into Money Trees. I didn't surf today but there may have been some double overhead sets, coming infrequently to any patient takers. Mostly thought about 10 foot faces. I was feeling content from the past 5 days of surf and especially from yesterday's session.
So the water has finally gone warm. I haven't used any sort of rubber for the past week or even longer. Some guys are still wearing jackets or spring suits, but truly the need to wear a 2 mm short arm full seem to be part of the past now. And my thought about the past 2 days being unusually warm...well maybe that's another sign about a seasonal shift.
--MICHAEL
