October 18th 2009

Morning check and the surf had risen, winds were calm and the day looked promising.  BUT not long after that was the first sobering incident.  At one point I almost dropped...wanting to pass out, playing tug-o-war with some guy and CJ's shoulder in the middle.  Finally it set back into its socket and I relaxing seeing CJ's  eyes going calm and glassy... pharmaceutical drugs are more powerful than a placebo.  The morning drama subsided and Doctor Preeti was thanked over and over.  Here's another.... MANY THANKS PREETI FOR YOUR CONFIDENT HELP!!!

Today was field trip day at Pantai Plengkung (G-Land).  Truckloads of high school kids showed up and encircled the traveling surfer's with happy eyes and those curious questions.  And today was also a good surfing day.  Solid 3-4 footers coming in throughout the day with a  much-appreciated return of proper offshore winds at about 11 o'clock.   Like I wrote yesterday, I'd give it a day or 2 before I hear any barrel stories at G-Land Bobby's Surf Camp and so it only took 1.

And again like I wrote yesterday about not seeing anything enticing enough to make me run and grab my board... today was instead the opposite.  3 o'clock surf check... bottom of this spring tide and that special short section of the reef made me run.  It was a good day to break free of resting and healing.  Good day to paddle into the G-Land Surf.

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