November 7th 2009

These early morning low-tides have really set up the later part of the day to only get better.   A little more swell energy showed up today at G-Land...contra to what the forecast had predicted.  And this is always a good reminder not to get overly reliant on the swell models.  Money Trees was breaking more down-the-line than yesterday morning, but Kongs is and has been the staple on these retracting swell conditions.  Still, it was a nice size...about 5 to 8 foot on the face at midday and still offshore all day!

By the late afternoon, Moneys rarely had sets, but no one sitting down there either.  I was watching it from Kongs, hoping to get lured down there and enjoy it alone.  Kongs was quality fun, but it wasn't that consistent like yesterday afternoons session.  I eventually made it down to Ledge/Moneys just before the setting sun touched the horizon and got a quick little pulse.  5 waves came through to me and the fifth one made itself clear that I need to give thanks and go in.

I had a nice...long....meditative walk across the reef back to the beach, sat down and enjoyed a cold beer, talked a little story with Cole, and walked back into Bobby's G-Land Surf Camp.

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