November 4th 2011

G-LAND ... i didn't wanna get too creative with the sound of surf playing in the background, like it was an alarm clock that every surfer would want.  But there was a noticeable roar to it and i couldn't stop the subtle drip of excitement from penetrating.  Went straight out front and couldn't make sense of what i was hearing.  Maybe it was the South Coast coming alive.  There wasn't any wind so it wasn't the onshore carrying the rumble to my ears.  Either way...it was looking pretty small...tide was low and that wasn't helping things out.

So rising tide and a rise in the surf.  NICE!!!  Ended up being real fun.  Rode a 9'2" that works better in faster moving water than not, but stoked from getting some long rides.  We were getting some head high sets upreef.  Fan Palms and Kongs were the rice and pudding.  Warm water and good crew of people out here.  Raymond's closed on the 1st and Joyo's doesn't have many guests at all.  We got 11.

Today is the 14th day of small surf.  2 weeks and probably counting BUT you never know with out here.  Remembering last seasons situation around this same time, we had 2 weeks of small surf as well.  AND the it turned on.   2 hands together right now, palm to palm and pointing them to the sky with a positive thought that something beautiful is on the way!!!

--MICHAEL

Comments are closed.