Some degree of physiological change happened to me today. We've been witness to the cliche of "good things come in 3," and good things meaning quality G-Land Surf.... 3 referring to our 3rd straight day of it! But even with such conditions, all I did was sleep. Maybe I overdosed from the past 2 days, or some little critter bit me. The billiard comp from last night didn't go that late, but that probably helped. Still, I'm not sure why I was half-dead???
Early morning conditions looked great, but I wanted to time a session with fewer people. Fewer... like surfing alone or with 1 or 2 others. My noon surf check was really energizing. It was the crown of a 2-meter high, proper offshore, 8 to 10 foot faces, and some clean, hollow ones ripping down Moneys and beyond. Fan palms was looking nice, but not as enticing. Mostly everyone in the water had been surfing for awhile. So... I sat down for a stretch, finished up and laid down on the floor to go completely loose and woke up 3 1/2 hours later.
Put my board under my arm and went straight up to 1st point to judge where to surf and sat for almost 30 minutes. It went almost flat. I watched only a couple push through Moneys and went back to rest. Bad sync. Went back for a sunset check and saw a mean looking set stand up at Fang and really unload. They kept on coming too. Really bad sync. There were some quality looking barrels, but unfortunately that was my judgement from land and not the sea. Some days can be pure synchronicity and some the exact opposite.
