November 18-20 2011

G-LAND ... Been less and less interested in the computer and more focused on being out here in a more simple way.  So probably just 1 more report after this one and that's it for the season.  And with only 2 guests left...Cole Doeh and Mike Fair...it's clearly the end of the season.  I've been amazed that not even 1 person has come in since sometime around the 11th. 

The 18th.
4th day straight of waves and we are loving it.  The winds were OKAY, sometimes coming outta the W, mostly outta the S and shortly blowing from the E.  But all directions were blowing lightly so it really didn't have too much of a negative effect when it wasn't offshoreWater has been warming up and the air is for sure hot and sticky, so any little touch of cooler water is like a cold towel around a feverish body.  It soothing!!!

Money Trees was on.  10-12 foot faces and really playful for that kinda size.  If we had proper offshores, Moneys would have been barreling real nicely, but instead it was more carvable than anything else.  We got a taste of Launching Pad/Speedies, but it really wasn't happening.  Maybe 1 outta every 20 waves... whatever the statistic... but it wasn't worth sitting down there too long while Money Trees lined up and ran the reef.  The Ledge put in a show and gave us the best opportunity to ride inside for its short-lived cameo.

The 19th.
Swell took a downturn in size and the 5 of us out here decided to take a relax day.  That was at least the thought earlier on.  But a little pulse started to show and sometime around just after noon...after an earlier lunch...we took the panga down to Tigertracks.  Blacky, Samson, Cole, Derek, and iReal good fun.  It was a little bumpy, but nothing enough to destroy the fun.  Blacky was rippin', really surfing fast and smoother than i've seen before.  Samson was beat...too many rokoks!!!  Shoulder to head high and the rights were going all the way.  On our way back, the triad of buleh's hopped off at Money's and we got some 8 foot faces all the way until sunset.

The 20th.
Like a hopeful in the morning, i heard the surf bouncing off my roof and got real excited.  Went straight out front to see if it was true and sure enough...IT WAS!!!  New swell on a new day and after 4 guests went back to Bali yesterday, that leaves 3 of us here....Cole, Mike, and me.  5 surfers including Blacky and Samson.

Already double overhead early in the AM and looking like a real quality swell direction.  Money Trees was lining up, sectionless and with some power.  Just the onshore making it seem like patience would be worthy of something later on.  Went up in the tower and watched it, really giving it a good long look.  Today was the 1st day in a long time that i felt like taking a few photos of the line-up.  But could'nt find my camera.  So no shots of it unfortunately.

A few light puffs of offshore came alive around 10 and by 11, i was in the water.  Surfed for 2 hours, catching whatever felt right since nobody else was out there.  Surf was picking up and by the time i got out of the water, some double overhead plus sets were coming through.  Real curious to see what would be happening on the high tide around sunset.  Lunch, quick power nap in the tower, waking up to watch Cole and then his son Derek get back to back barrels at Moneys.  Mike and Rob were paddling through the lagoon, and there was only one natural path to follow.  I was out there.

By the end of the session, we were getting some solid sets...3 times overhead and clean.  We just didn't get the regularly hollow kind of Moneys you may hope for.  The wind never picked up strong enough for that.  But it was so nice and clean!!!   Some Launching Pad into Speedies, but really it was a Money Trees swell.  Beautiful sunset, lighting up the sky and reflecting back down onto the water.  In fact, the past 3 or 4 days have had really amazing sunsets.

And that's it for now....

--MICHAEL

 

 

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