G-Land was showing some more energy this morning, checked it at 6 and was feeling a little tight so I walked down to Joyo's to do some yoga with Kimbo to get a little limbered up. Ate breakfast and went straight out speedies as the tide was right and I was frothing for a good one. There were some great waves coming through but just a little slow.
Got my best waves up Money trees and stayed there for a few hours also. There were some long rides on offer and plenty of barrels taboo. The current was strong with the big high tide coming off the reef all afternoon and we all got a big workout.
After lunch I was feeling tired but I had to sneak out for a late one at the ledge... Love it out there... Got a nice one that made it all worth while and came in on time to enjoy a bintang watching the sunset.
We had our first patient needing stitches today in Kimbo's clinic and Puma did a nice job stitching up his knee from hitting the reef. He snapped two boards and had grazes all over his body.. Shame to see someone with bad luck when everyone else was frothing on their day.
Bretto
