G-LAND ... Yup, that was right from yesterdays report...28 came in today. But fortunately for all of us, so did a new swell. Very nice to see it happening out front again. Calm conditions early on and by 9 or so, offshores blowing across the filled in lagoon and out to sea. The guests taking off today that went for an early morning paddle made the better call of how to spend their last few hours here. Smooth and lining up nicely at dawn is not normal...but it has been lately. I've been writing about that a lot the past 3 weeks or so.
Here's what it was...8-12 foot faces and pulsing then lulling for a long time, then pulsing once again. The lulls lasted long enough that repositioning somewhere else on the reef for the next 40 minute pulse was a smart maneuver. We had a little bit of everything working today. Inside Launching Pad all the way up through Kongs. The Ledge rarely had a good bowl setting up , but there were maybe like 3 that stood up on the slant properly. Fan Palms had 2 beautiful pulses and Moneytrees had 2 great pulses as well. Lots of barrels, but in my opinion...tricky barrels today. One guy that ended up in my view many times was getting the easier negotiable barrels. If you asked him, he would have said differently than "tricky tubes today."
So "Franky the Fuk" has been marked. He was detained for questioning today by 2 of our field agents and then marked with green paint so everyone here can know about this Public Enemy Number 1. It's getting pretty radical here with some of the monkeys and marshall law may be declared in the near future!!! If you're coming over here and would like to make a donation to our rehabilitation effort of Franky the Fuk and his disciples then you may donate a high-powered WATER gun to the camp...maybe even a few of them. We need to treat him with sticky, stinky solutions of doom so that no female monyet will go next to him. He'll be forced to re-evaluate his swollen testicles!!!
--MICHAEL
