G-LAND ... Fading back just a light slight from the day just gone, waves breaking over all our heads, even over raised-up hands at times patiently arced around the point and under feet. Patience was putting up the challenge with its ability to creep the sense of purpose out of you..."creep" like the slow moving earth kind, not "you're a creep." 40 minutes of sitting can creep the intention that you're in the ocean to ride waves right out of you. So you sit, you wait...you're mind begins to drift. And your body begins to drift "out of position." 40 minutes just gone and it's gonna be another 40 minutes cause the blessed offshore sheered your body into deep water. Obviously the mind was somewhere else. It all ='s long long time before you ride a wave.
And so...I didn't surf!!!! YEP Stayed on land and did ding repair almost all day so I could avoid the situation I just wrote about....and even more so to avoid the situation that having 1...or not even 1...board to surf on isn't smart if me is here. Computer show big swell come soon!!!
IF YOU’RE COMING OUT HERE SOON, still BRING SOME RUBBER…
WATER HAS WARMED UP A BIT, BUT IT'S still a little CHILLY
and THE OFFSHORE still MAKES IT COLD
–MICHAEL
