G-LAND ... So today i was like the troll under the bridge, forcing a payment to pass with no worries at all as long as you gave me your personal surf report. I wasn't far from the beach, right in front of the clinic in fact, but far enough since i was working on a project that took all of my focus. Before i could even wake up out of it...lunch had passed and i had to flip the lights on. Sunset beers rolled on passed me and i didn't even notice them.
So the stories go like this...
"ah...a couple fun ones but didn't get any of those bombs coming through"
"oh yeah...bombs coming in...what sort of bombs and where were they goin off," i asked
"fan palms and i'd seen a smoka come through mate that some cunt got 'n' it shoulda been me....HAHAHAHAH"
"right on" i said "you may pass"
and another story went
"broooo, there's some sick waves goin off out there" "what the F are you doin' here. don't you surf"
"ohh bro" i says back " of course i surf, just not motivated today. but that's good you got out there" "did you get any of the siiiicckk ones?
"dude, i got such a sick one bro" "hey, was the photographer taking shots today"
"nice bro...yeah i don't about the photos but better you remember it from the inside out instead of the other way around. just check later tonight on the ph0to computer"
"sick bro" and he's off....
when i looked at it in the morning, i didn't see any proper sets, but things obviously changed throughout the day and i kept on hearing some good stories from everyone passing by. and the winds were proper offshore again early in the AM. it's just amazing what's been going on with the winds!!!
--MICHAEL