G-LAND ... Smallish waves but really fun today. 6-10 foot faces but not so many 10 footers coming through. But Moneytrees had some clean waves running the reef every hour or so. The Ledge right on up through Kongs was the go to spots on the reef for more consistent surfing and it was...like i wrote...FUN. That classic kind of performance surfing platform that it can be up there.
The winds have been great lately, blowing strong and straight offshore. None of that S wind that wraps around the point when you're way upreef. And the water seems to be slowly warming back up. It's definitely not chilled like it was. I've been just surfing in trunks and been comfortable enough except for right around sunset time. But no need for thick rubber anymore...or at least at this moment.
Franky the Fuk got his long-time beating today. Ohhh he got drilled. I was lounging on the long benches in front of the TV when the shrieks started. I couldn't see the fight since it went down on the other side of the bamboo fence where the BBQ is at (right by the kitchen door), but he ended up in the tree about 10 feet in front of me. He was in shock, lips pulsing up and down and eyes bugging all around their orbits. His shoulder was ripped apart by a bite that may have been directed for his neck, but he's lucky. The story is that a big male, not Rambo but maybe the next in line took him out. I'm sure he'll be in hiding for the next week or more. Franky the Fuk got his today!!!
--MICHAEL
