G-Land weather was a bit 'under the weather' this morning... a bit of drizzle, and a bit of rain, then after lunch sun came back out, humidity was up, the wind was light, but all day there was still waves. 3-4ft, Kongs being my pick after lunch. I rode Ryan Birch's 5'7 asymmetrical board for something fun to do. 17" wide, totally different rails to each other, tail and nose totally uneven... designed for goofy foots and perhaps ideally suited to lefts, this board WAS SO FUN. Once I got used to it, man, it was going so fast at times.
The surf was very uncrowded all day, I heard Tigertracks was fun again in the afternoon, and the water out the main break seemed a bit warmer today, I was in just a thin wetsuit jacket and boardies. Have attached below a picture of my friend Chris Luke from 2 days ago...