July 23rd 2011

G-Land Surf grew somewhat overnight! Bagus! The Bombie finally rearing to life, with 8ft+ sets breaking on it. The low tide in the morning and morning sickness look about it kept everybody on the beach... possibly waiting till they seen people go out and get good waves? Well I went out at 10:30am and timed it just right, the tide came up a little bit more and the wind was stiffening its offshore breeze and there was some beautiful 6ft sets grinding through Money Trees! Water was still not the warmest,  I wore an old 2mm Steamer and was just right.

Some real good barrels to be had if you got the right waves, and some waves would offer multiple barrels. With the tide getting higher, there were easily 8ft sets coming through here and there keeping the crowd on their toes. Crowd? Yes, was pretty busy from late morning till mid afternoon (as per high tide goes). I went back out late in the day, and right before sunset snagged 2 perfect set waves with good tubes. Thats G-Land for you. There were sets going all the way down the reef, I got one from Upper Moneys all the way to end of Speedies. And I seen others do that too on the right wave!

A few injuries today, nothing to serious thankfully. I sure ate donuts a lot amongst the good ones I got. My friend Chris Luke ripped his groin muscle, so hes a bit sore, but will probably try surf tomorrow. Mika Akima got slammed on the reef and hurt his foot. Rodrigo got a scratching. And there was broken boards and leashes of course too. As per my video efforts, I've put a few more frame grabs here. Apologize for not putting up the prime quality shots Dave gets, just haven't got round to getting any.

A Nicely sunset-lit late in the day tube

 

About to set up a stand-up pit

 

And into the stand-up pit

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