Here we go again with another wake-up check revealing G-Land rocking again with the 6-8ft West swell pounding the upper half of the reef. Bombie sets were seen breaking well before the tide dropped to mid, and there was no shortage of solid double overhead waves this morning. Bryan from Oahu was about to paddle out at 7:30 but counted 35 guys out already, seems they all were chasing the short lived high tide. Well the offshore was already up and there were certainly some good ones to be found amongst it all.
I did a bit of yoga and warm-ups before breakfast, then punched back my big French toast & Porridge & Fruit meal. Around 11 I paddled out not thinking it was too solid. However my first attempt at taking a wave on the Ledge proved otherwise. A solid 6-8ft (12-15ft face) nugget wedged up right in front of me, so I had to give it a ago. However it sucked out right under me and I ended up free falling the whole way to the flats, and yes, getting smoked. After that though the swell did stay a more moderate 5-6ft, and there were waves from the Ledge down to lower money trees with the 0.8m tide sitting for a couple of hours. My last wave went from Money's all the way to Speedies, I came in satisfied with my 3 hour session, then relaxed and caught up on emails & played around with video footage for the rest of the day.
Oh and crowd factor? My whole surf never got more than 10 guys out in that 3 hours. Excellent.
