August 30th 2011

G-Land Surf had a nice light offshore on it by 7am already. Pity that didn't blow yesterday morning when the swell was 4-5ft. Anyway, still 3-4ft this morning, and the angle of the swell had waves peeling down whole length of the reef albeit some very fast sections. So after 30 mins of sitting at the beach drinking coffee watching so many fun looking waves peeling off with 1 person out, I couldn't help but forego my breakfast and race out there at 8am! Got a few very nice waves down lower Money Trees and even small Speedies on my 5'10 quad, with a couple barrels here and there too. By 9am the waves slowed down so much, and it seemed the 2.4m tide at 10am killed it for a couple of hours. Crowd wasn't too bad today at all.

That surf killed me too, I ended up having a near 2 hour nap around noon! For those who surfed on the outgoing there was overhead nice waves up at Kongs and Fan Palms, and also straight out the front of Bobby's camp at Money Trees guys were getting fun walls on the 0.1m low tide at 4pm. Apparently this morning Tigertracks had some pristine clean conditions with 2ft waves breaking on the high tide right.

The water temp has finally started to warm up!  I wore just a short-john tube suit out this morning, and I did get some shivers and goose pimples between sets, but there was definitely some warmer currents starting to mix into the cold current we've had the past couple of weeks. Still wouldn't want to be out in just boardies though!

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