Plenty of action at G-Land once again. Swell dropped considerably, but that wasn't a bad thing considering yesterdays monstrous size! High tide was at 8am, and the offshore came around then too. That mean't what Speedies waves there were, had to be ridden with an outgoing tide. Definitely a few gems out there, but very shallow on some, and plenty of people hit the reef today. Still some easy 6ft Launching Pad sets, perhaps odd bigger, and coming into 3-4ft Speedies. I got the shits with the surf, lots of guys ended up out there and I was probably just coming down from yesterday mornings barrels, so I went in not long after I got out.
I hit Money Trees on the mid-low tide early arvo, and was only a few of us out. Conditions were a bit raw and the offshore was strong. Swell kinda picked up in the arvo, as there was some solid 6ft sets coming into Money's, and they were raw, wild and wanting to eat surfers for lunch. And I did get eaten in numerous barrels. Had fun though!
About 4pm I surfed again at Ledge and Money's, only 10 guys out max, was considerably cleaner at this time, and around 5pm I got a stinker of a wave. Super late drop into getting board on rail as quick as possible then getting a big round pit, and spat out of it. 3 surfs and I finally got 'the one'! Awesome...
Water was freezing today, I would be screwed without my 2mm steamer.
Bobby's photographer Dave Thomas snuck in a few sick ones at Speedies. I captured him on my GoPro here paddling out
This was my wave of the day, the thing was so fast and intense, a full 6ft Fang double up, spat me out shortly after this frame grab
Same barrel but from my front wrist..
