August 26th 2009

Where did the swell go?? That was the question I asked when I looked at the G-Land Surf early this morning. But it must have been an hour long low tide lull, as when I took the new G-Land Bobby's Surf Camp guests on an Orientation Tour about 9:30am there were some 4-5ft sets, then within the next hour there were 5-6ft sets streaming through Money Trees and the Fang! The offshore was up by 9am, and despite the charts calling light winds today it was actually rather windy, I think the G-Land jungle creates a micro-climate of its own at times.

I paddled out about lunch time, and gave Speedies ago but it wasn't really working. Although there were a handful of waves through the high tide that went crazy through there, but literally a handful. I seen Mick Burke get the most insane wave through there, but no one else. Money Trees as the tide started to drain had a few sick ones, one wave I dropped into late under the lip, and proceeded to get 3 or 4 barrrels, 2 of which were very deep, it was a sensational feeling to make that wave.

Wanted to stay out but by 3:30pm my stomach was craving some food, so I came in for a big carbo hit from a delish plate of Spaghetti Carbonara and Fruit Salad, took some creatine, Pocari Sweat, then did some shoulder exercises. One thing about G-Land is when your here for along time all the paddling can make certain muscle groups stronger than the others, so one must workout opposing muscles to bring more balance, equilibrium and alignment in the shoulders. After that I drank beers and witnessed some beautiful sunset colours lighting up the low tide rock pools.

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