August 25th 2009

Purrrrrrrrfection is what was available in G-Land today, a very nice south swell with 6ft sets was hitting Launching Pads/Speedies late morning, not very crowded, and Money Trees also had some great waves.

I managed to snag an 8ft rogue wave off the Pad, and got a standup pit through the cobra and then a piping tube through Speedies, that made my surf! Then later surfing Money Trees I pulled in too deep, and come up too see my 6'4 was now a couple of 3'2's!! Damn.. G-Land Surf is just so powerful sometimes...

After lunch went back out Money Trees and there were some mean sets coming through, solid 6ft with the odd bigger. And for half of my surf there were just 2 people out!? In August?! Bizzare super quiet August... maybe everyone thinks its packed and they're not coming... well I can tell you all now its very quiet!

One thing that really annoys me, its happened many times this season, is when I line up a tube, I've set my line, and some guy paddling out doesn't wanna cop the lip on the head, so he duckdives right in my line, causing me to lose track of my line and get smoked in the tube! Happened this afternoon when I pulled into my best barrel of the day... I was horrified. If a surfer is committed to his line in the tube, the surfer paddling out must get out of his way!!! Whether that means copping the wave on the head, its irrelevant. Its just plain rude to go ruin someones mean as barrel!

While I'm venting frustration, today my blood really boiled when I seen Joyo's Jungle Camp boat shoot out at least 5 times in the mid-late morning session, dropping 1 or 2 people at a time, and some of them getting the captain to take them up to Kongs! I mean come on you boat babies, if you really insist on taking that gay-ass boat out, then get dropped off way down off the end of Speedies so you don't ruin entire sets with your boat-wake!!! Or how about paddling out like the majority of people at G-Land!!! Just ban the damn boat-taking already, and leave the zodiacs for fishing, diving, and going to Tigertracks. You wanna surf main break G-Land, then paddle out and earn your waves!!!

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