August 13th 2011

G-Land Surf was solid today! 6:30am surf check revealed solid 6-8ft sets coming through Money Trees with no wind. Clean too. Probably the best time to be out there in hindsight? There was little current, and clean walls. High tide at 8:30am. As most of us do, I waited it out. But it went onshore through the morning. Hummmppfffhhh! Plenty of crew went out and gave it ago. Many axing's and broken boardst today probably because it was pretty hard to make with the sea breeze. And when it did finally go offshore, it was not a great offshore, more like a southerly coming cross-shore down the point. Not really any great barrels ridden through the morning and early arvo. And after lunch a humungous current started washing down the point, as the swell was hitting hard up at Kongs and Fan Palms in between Money Trees sets. Arrrghhh! In saying all that, lots of guests got some great rides. Some guests surfed Tigertracks but with the late offshore coming as the tide was getting too low, it didn't help. And 20/20's was almost good but a touch small really. About 2ft.

I tried to go to Tigertracks on my motorbike late morning, but it broke down half way there. Ferrrrkkk! This was a lesson in how nice the local Javanese people are. Without any hint of wanting anything in return, 2 different local fisherman on their motorbikes stopped one after the other to try help me. Even when I insisted I would just park it at 20/20's, and walk back, then get the mechanic to take a look at it later, they wouldn't take no for an answer. The 2nd guy ended up towing me with some rope off the back of his own motorbike which was loaded with 2 baskets and a chilly bin with ice and fish, for 3kms on a bumpy road! Blew me away. I gave him some money in the end for his help and to show my appreciation, but he didn't even expect it. What a legend. And thats how so many of the local people are. Very good people.

So, I re-planned and told myself I'd go out for a surf after 4pm. Low tide 0.4m was at 3:30pm so I wasn't gonna get much tide at all anyway. I kept to that plan, and the current was heavy. Paddling non-stop the whole time trying to get in position, it was hard work. But I got a few smoking barrels that made it all worth it 🙂  Then came in, had a bintang, then delicious buffet, and after that relaxed watching a DVD in the cinema room.

Right now Indonesia is approaching Independence day on the 17th, so theres a lot of things going on. Bobby came to camp briefly this morning for some ceremonial things, and then left as he had more ceremonial things in Bali to get back too.

Ugly frame grab from a super deep barrel ride I got late in the day... same as GoPro below!

Same wave as above, from the nose of my board

Comments are closed.