G-LAND ... I can understand why on the 28th, the last transport into here was only ridden by a few people. The forecast wasn't something that looked too positive. Bad winds and a very short lived swell that came in on the 27th and faded out by the 28th, which means a gambler would have gone all in for just the 28th. Unassuming it would be then to leave it at that. So you gotta assume i'm gonna flip the story. It was all-time today!!! I'm hobbled, outta the water for probably a long time so we're somewhat in the same situation, viewing into G-Land from afar. Of course i can smell and feel the ocean on my body, but the surf is still only virtual for both of us.
Great winds brushing up against a well-formed swell and you know what that formula equals to out here. Again, it was double overhead and today actually had better form coming from my vantage point. And it was hollower too!!! Same deal again...we got a full house. Every section breaking except proper Ledge since the low didn't drop below 1.1 meters. But that just meant that sets could run through Ledge into Moneys more easily. It was a beautiful day out here with classic conditions...everyone is stoked once again!!!
--MICHAEL
Derel in a very well composed exposure!!!
