G-LAND ... I could hear it as i was slowly waking up. I don't remember the sound of the surf actually waking me up, but it was for sure a part of me waking up faster than my usual pace. Curiosity sets in quickly on these mornings. A couple cat stretches before standing up and then straight out front to check it out. The swell was up, sets already breaking on the bombora as the early AM low-tide was flowing and looking like it was gonna be a gamble on + or - conditions. 2 to 3 times overhead and i could already see a strong current sweeping down the reef.
About a week ago when the water went green from all the upwelling, then began the start for a perfect recipe to make spume. The seafoam has been pretty thick at times, sometimes getting overhead on the paddle back upreef. Not 1 person surfed today out front because it just looked outta control and the winds didn't even begin to blow offshore until about noon. By that time, the bump was already serious enough to make a surf more like a run through the whoops section of a moto track. BUT i would have guessed the spume to be 2 feet thick or more. I'm not even sure how you could have dealt it trying to lay over on a bottom turn. 2 foot foam, no offshore to blow it well offshore and bumps on top of the bigger lumps...yup...no one surfed out front.
20-20's was the staple today. I eventually gave up on surfing out front by around 3 o'clock and did the walk down into the Bay. I was really curious to see what Chicken's was doing. No good. The lumps and bumps had make their way all the way down the point. 20-20's was a little smoother, but there was a backwash coming outta the channel, maybe because of the low tide. It was too big for there. 20's is perfect from 4-8 foot faces. Today was more like 12 foot faces...TOO BIG. You for sure could catch them and ride the entire wave through, but it's just a bit strange. "The Grass is Greener on the Other Side" was going through my head cause Motolele (what would be 20-30's ) looked to be cleaner and peeling nicely along its path. Ahhhh...a "too big" day at G-Land. Maybe tomorrow will be more doable!!!
--MICHAEL
