G-LAND ... 3rd morning straight with the alarm starting my day. This is NOT a normal thing for me. So 5 o'clock out front for another check to see if the South Coast was doable. And the fog was challenging my feelings about giving it a go. We hung until about 6:30, finally committing to it and made the movement towards the boat channel. Just before 7 and the diesel fueled, single cylinder, long-shaft powerhorse was igniting the propeller through the water. It was still foggy but not too bad at all. A few patches of blue skies and we took the gamble that the wind was gonna do us right.
We couldn't see anything when we arrived at what Pak Salim and i thought was the spot. Jumped shipped and i never got convinced that we were on the spot, so i went back to the cukung and together, Salim and i found where we needed to be. The fog burned off enough and we got the rest of the crew over to the reef pass. Different spot than 2 days ago. Like i wrote the day before, there are many waves on the South Coast, there's just not much experience out there since we are here to surf G-Land.
We had a really fun surf, going right and actually seeing a radical enough difference in wave form as the tide continued to drop that it made the session get better and better. Even a few little cover-ups. The good sets were head high, but mostly waist to chest high. GOOD FUN surfing something different. The wind never came up and we surfed until the tide seemed too low and the sets stopped coming. By the time we made it back to the boat channel, it was 11:15 and hunger and thirst were all i wanted to satiate. But the sets looked fun up at Fan Palms. And the tide was good. First some food and water and then i'll see was my thought. Fueled back up and PASSED OUT for many hours in the bar...NOT AT THE BAR.
--MICHAEL
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- never had the chance to get a photo of the better waves coming through…but still looking fun
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- Kapten Salim and his donkey
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- Mateo, the Picolo bros, Ash, and Coxy
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- chilly water + tropical heat = THIS
