G-LAND ... Being woken up by the sound of surf is beautiful. I didn't have to calm the high just in case it was just the onshore carrying it onto land. Yesterday evening had closed up with swell still pumping into G-Land so the possibility of the swell disappearing that quick was real minor. Early morning beachfront surf check was looking positive. A little morning lump but it just felt like a quality day was gonna materialize...living on high hopes and always positive about what's to come. The offshore started grooming up the already nicely lined-up swell by about 9:30 and even though the swell slightly dropped from yesterday, it was coming in 2x overhead on the best sets and gonna focus right onto Launching Pad as the tide rose up outta the early morning low.
Pad into Speedies was setting up but you needed to be selective...not so much like yesterday. The seam in between the sections was more obvious, separating the potential to get into a proper Speedies barrel. Better to just sit downreef of the Pad and pick off the bumps that focused into Speedies. But there still were those one's that connected through and piped off through the shallows. Tide chart read a 1.8 meter high but it seemed more like 1.5 meters. A lot of brown colored distractions pulling the focus from the wave onto the reef. But no one got hurt!!!
Money Trees working all day long and some really long, lined-up waves setting up. Not so many hollow one's...just more playful and carveable. As the tide dropped, the Ledge stood up. But that didn't last too long. About an hour of it working and then it really just stopped. But tubes were happening during that hour pulse. Really it was an all section buffet. Fan Palms...Kongs...20's and Tigertracks all happening. I was watching some nice looking waves peel off down at the boat channel too. Real shallow on the low tide...but they were peeling evenly and unridden. It was nice to know everything within the 6 kilometer stretch of waves out here were working. Doesn't happen so often...but it did today. Still feeling real thankful for this surprise that showed up yesterday.
--MICHAEL
