G-LAND ... A lot of times you hear people talking prophetically that the 2nd day of an incoming swell will be better...cleaner...more organized. So yesterday was the 2nd day of this new swell and pretty stoked about it hanging around for a 3rd cause today WAS THE DAY it refined itself into that better, cleaner, and more organized swell. It really was a good-fun day of surfing. One of those days that the sunset beer session was more like a tight community, everyone riding on a nice high, talking story and simply appreciating being exactly where they were standing.
The size backed off from yesterday, with the best sets getting up to double-overhead at Money Trees. Fan Palms/Ledge and Kongs pulling in a few real solid sets. I vividly remember watching someone locked into a bowling, high-line barrel at Fan Palms, beautifully backlit with his nose pointing down into the trough, not down-the-line and holding that position for about 4-5 seconds. I got high just watching it, so I'm sure the surfer was flying real high.
Money's was breaking the best just after midday for about 2 hours, definitely the most consistent window of the day. But the late-afternoon into sunset session was so glassy and smooth that the 30+ minute wait in-between sets was easily worth it. And unlike the past 2 days, there were plenty of medium sized waves coming in between the sets. And to make the waits all the easier, the closer the sun got to the horizon, the more the water reflected the colors from the sky.
Anyone know about Aussie Fighter Jets flying around these parts. Supposedly there's something going on in Bali right now. But there were two jets thundering overheard for about 45 minutes, maybe trying to show us another approach to carving. Pretty interesting to see, but I would have rather not been shocked out of my nap in the beachfront hammock. Those jets are frickin' loud!!!
--MICHAEL
