G-Land was plenty the merry again today. First inspection at 6:30am was solid 4ft sets coming in to a high tide Money Trees area... Wind wasn't offshore, but it was very light variable, and looked pretty damn fun to me if you felt like surfing! Around 15 guests came in today and similar numbers leaving, including long time guest Ernie, who does so much water time for a man in his 50's. He's back to Kauai and I guess its summer time there, so he was trying to get as much time in the water as he could while in G-Land. He certainly got some great tubes while he was here!
A offshore wind came through late morning as it typically does, and the swell hung in there till about the 2pm 0.6m low tide, and then after that it seemed to slowly subside a bit more. After almost 2 days of resting, I felt it was time to surf. So after my post-lunch siesta, I went out with Jeremy on my 5'10 epoxy thumb tail High performance shortboard, shaped by my local Taranaki shaper Cain Aldridge. He made it quad/tri set-up for me. So far, every time as a quad it felt average. This time I must have got the right fin combo - 2 DL Powerbase fins on the front (these are like imitation glass-ons that go into FCS, and feel amazing. Owen Wright uses them now too. They feel sooo good), and then chucked some g1000's in the back. The board was on fire! Some of the on rail turns it was doing felt really nice.
For a surf I wasn't expecting anything of, it turned out to be a super fun session, with a beautiful sunset to end it. And then! It was Mexican for dinner, my favorite!! Chicken Enchiladas with black beans and mexican rice. And then pancake for dessert! Does it get any better? Add 2 Bintangs and a glass of pepsi and southern comfort whiskey and I guess it does 🙂
Carving today at the Fan Palm
