G-LAND ... there's easy and quick ways to paint an image and then there's the opposite. So the easier is my back is heated up and in need of ten fingers, elbows, and feet...seems like most everyone else is in need as well.
3 days of beautiful Pantai Plengkung...4 including the 20th but that day was different in character than these past 3. Kongs...Fan Palms...Money Trees...Inside Launching Pad...Upper Upper Speedies...and even further on into the bay were saturating all of the "not so many" wave riders out here with a pure, endocrinological high.
Aldous Huxley wrote that when adrenalin denatures, it breaks apart at one stage of the process into a derivative of mescaline. Maybe this is why "one who surfs" has the possibility to gain insights into this life that have nothing to do with cultivating our head because of a turn or a line through a funneling wave.
Up to 2X over our heads...once again....and lining up beautifully. I watched some very long rides today. And a few very long barrels. One through middle Money's where I really didn't think the guy would recognize what was about to happen. He did and did it well. He saw the warble half way through and drifted up high when he "had to" and then back down into the bottom-curve and ultimately out. We had a quick exchange of hoots as he went past and up-reef I went.
--MICHAEL
1st 1 2 C what we C gets 1 week free in "DA FAVELA"
