G-Land was out in full force today with an angry attitude and an appetite for destruction! Sets coming through in the 6ft range (double overhead) with the odd bigger. First up in the morning it was no wind, up till about 10am. Wobbly waves from the rain squalls and incoming tide. Then the tide flipped, trade kicked in, sun came out, and this west swell that was upon us was going all the way down to Launching Pads and upper Speedies. Very surprising. However, it was quite raw out there, and the wind was making funny bumps on the waves, and some gnarly sections. I reckon 15-20 boards broken throughout the day. Then there were some big barrels had too. Stand up pits if you could get the right one.
Perhaps I should have surfed the higher tide and hunted some Speedies tubes, but something told me not too, so I went out the mid-low tide session, and ended up surfing some hard work Money Trees. A lot of paddling, the wind coming a bit to much south for super clean tubes, and then finally when I got a big barrel, the next wave exploded on my head, breaking my board as well.
Poor old Hayden, luckily its his last day, he was walking out to surf and slipped on some slippery reef, and came down wrong on his finger, and broke it. Ouch! A doctor at another camp reset it back into place, and things weren't as bad as they could have been.
Right on 5pm Money Trees pumped, and the best waves of the day along that stretch were happening. Of course by 5:30 it was dark, so it was short lived. But the lucky few out there scored some really good tubes.
Tonight was yummy Mexican night, followed by a pancake. Delicious!
