September 1st 2010

G-LAND was beautiful today.  Start of the month and I hope it continues on for the rest.  But that's just my hope.  This was a Money Trees swell 100%.  Solid sets coming in at about 12-14 foot faces and holding up with quality form.  Plenty of medium sized waves as well.  Perfect offshore intensity keeping the waves open, but not too much to make the drops a late one in-the-blind.   It was one of those days that if a set was breaking on the  paddle back up-reef, the view was overly exciting.

And that was the problem.  I don't mind surfing with a crowd, but the truth in the end is that rarely can you surf with a crowd and everyone  keep up the respect and courtesy that helps keep surfing PURE FUN!.  So much wasted energy by people.

Up reef at Kongs was allegedly real fun.  Big sets...bigger than Moneys but naturally, more slopy(not sloppy).  But for sure much less mania an dysfunction going on.  Two handfuls went down to Tigertracks and came back happy.  About head high but a bit crowded.

--MICHAEL

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