G-Land easily redeemed itself after yesterdays performance! Plenty of swell still hanging around all morning, solid 6-8ft sets coming through Money Trees and Launching Pads, glassy with no morning onshore, and then a damn sight better than yesterday Trade wind kicked in before 9am! Stoked!!
The crowd wasn't too bad either, everyone was mostly spread out. I paddled out at 8am and scored Speedies to myself and had some nice big Pad sets coming into barreling Speedies. Got a good number under my belt before everyone came out, so any wave after that was a bonus. Surfed for 5 hours, loads of fun! Although there was nothing fun about the water temperature which would have been lucky to have been 20degrees! Lucky I had my 2mm steamer on so I was just right.. although my hands got numb at one stage waiting in a big lull.
I went back out in the G-land Surf at 4:30pm on the 0.1m tide, didn't really get much, then caught a bombie reform into the Ledge, and pulled into the maddest barrel I've been in for ages! Didn't come out, the spit/foamball sent me somersaulting, then the next wave steamrolled me and broke my legrope. I ended up getting washed up on the dry low tide reef, luckily I was wearing my super comfy XCEL reef booties, 2mm steamer, 1.5mm padded gloves, and a helmet! Lately (especially with the cold water) I've been armouring up for G-Land Surf Combat when I go out on the real low tide and attack the Ledge, as its such a nasty section that slams me so hard every time I surf it!