
G-LAND … September 22. More of what we needed came to us. And more doesn’t mean “more swell.” We actually needed a little reduction in swell since the tides aren’t in our favor. This was one of those swells that made it tough NOT to think about how it COULD HAVE BEEN. We just needed [...]
G-LAND … What a fun day of surfing. The conditions were real beautiful …light offshore …real clean surface texture …the swell from yesterday built a bit more giving us 10-12 foot faces …and there was a pretty good crew of guys (and a couple of girls) in the water. There was unfortunately, some dysfunction going [...]
G-LAND … And the water continues to warm up BUT you’re gonna STILL wanna bring a wetsuit. Something like a spring suit at least. The water is about 70 (21) degrees…I seen 2 guys trunking it. Covered in fog once again, i was being teased by the light onshore carrying the crack and roar of [...]