
G-LAND … Being woken up by the sound of surf is beautiful. I didn’t have to calm the high just in case it was just the onshore carrying it onto land. Yesterday evening had closed up with swell still pumping into G-Land so the possibility of the swell disappearing that quick was real minor. Early morning [...]
G-LAND … It was another late one last night…so at the 2nd hour after midnight i was awake, sitting on the bale in front, thick fog wrapped around the flouro lights. It was wet…cold…light onshore AND LOUD. No possibility in seeing the whitewater grinding down the reef, but i easily could see in my head [...]
G-LAND … What a fun day of surfing. The conditions were real beautiful …light offshore …real clean surface texture …the swell from yesterday built a bit more giving us 10-12 foot faces …and there was a pretty good crew of guys (and a couple of girls) in the water. There was unfortunately, some dysfunction going [...]