
G-LAND … A lot of times you hear people talking prophetically that the 2nd day of an incoming swell will be better…cleaner…more organized. So yesterday was the 2nd day of this new swell and pretty stoked about it hanging around for a 3rd cause today WAS THE DAY it refined itself into that better, cleaner, [...]
G-LAND … couldn’t have imagined a better day if I put my mind to it last night. The swell was still full-on and coming from just that right angle to make almost every wave set up into Speedies the way you would want it to. 10 surfers out on Launching Pad and Speed Reef…no more [...]
G-LAND … I got to apologize up front. Once more, I was hanging in bed most of the day trying to get my strength back up and not spread what has been spreading inside of me. I looked at it around 10 and at 2…looked real small, but in the few minutes that I was [...]