I woke up with the strong hope that today would be the day I surfed again. Early morning conditions were promising, just needed the offshores to start up. Fan Palms was about 4 to 6 foot (faces) and rare sets were making it down into Moneys. I continued to feel positive that today I would remember what riding a surfboard was like…haven’t stood on one since November the 8th.
hope
November 16th 2009
Monday, November 16th, 2009
November 11th 2009
Thursday, November 12th, 2009I have to give credit to the organization… pretty sure it’s NOAA/NCEP’s OMB and affiliates… that exists by collecting data and processing that information into a usable model. Anything up to 2 days out seems to be fairly accurate, beyond that and too many events can happen to change the course of a surfer’s hope.
By noon, sets started to break at Kongs and any stresses from not surfing the past couple of days faded away. G-Land was (more…)
November 5th 2009
Friday, November 6th, 20090.0 meter tide at sunrise and with the decrease in swell, I could only see 1 foot of the 2 feet faces. With small swell and low low-tides, there is definitely a reason for hope. When there’s size on a 0.0, noticing how long surfers can disappear from view on their below-sea-level bottom turn is a good indicator of how quick you can get pushed up onto the reef.
By the reach of a 1.0 meter tide, both the offshores and surf started to rise up. So I planned my surf to ride off the crowning 2.0 meter high and into Happy Hour! It was few and far in between sets, but same for the number of people out in the surf.
G-Land was about 3 to 5 feet on the face and if you were the chosen one, that rare overhead wave came straight to your smiling face. Clean and (more…)
