broken
Thursday, July 22nd, 2010
G-Land was still good again today! We have been blessed and it just hasn’t stopped. So many good waves, low tide and high tide and crowd is very minimal. Slightly smaller than yesterday but still 6ft sets.
Only slept 3 hours last night. I went to G-Land surf camp to check my photos and there was a guy there who had hurt his hip in the surf. He was in alot of pain and asked me to help him. He was in too much pain to get the bus or boat back to Bali and wanted the chopper to come and get him. I was on the phone all night to his insurance company, BIMC, and, AIR BALI trying to coordinate the evacuation. The chopper was here by 11:00am the next morning. It turns out his hip was broken aswell as a broken neck of femur. There were no lumps or deformities to tell. He was just in alot of pain so I didn’t want to chance there being anything major. He went in for surgery last night.
-Bretto
Tags: blessed, broken, chopper, crowd, evacuation, femur, G-Land, hip, insurance, pain, photos, surgery, tide, waves
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Monday, May 24th, 2010
G-Land started off very wet today. I got stuck at the bar last night. It was raining so heavy we couldn’t run back to the rooms so we just had a few drinks and waited. After a few too many I decided to just do the run and get wet. I was soaked!
When I checked the surf in the morning there was a massive hole in the beach front. The path to Bobby’s flowed down like a river and eroded about 10metres square of dirt into the ocean. It was over waist height deep and the tables and chairs were in the bottom of the hole like they had just sank into the ground.
The wind stayed light and softly offshore. The swell finally pumped in and the biggest set was probably 8ft. There were some bombs ridden and boards broken. Alot of excitement between the surfers and alot of hoots as people were dropping over the ledge. Money trees and Kongs were the pick however Kongs was just a little fat.. The swell is a little more west than it has been but still good to see a little size. Looking forward to the session tomorrow!
-Bretto
Tags: bar, Bobby's, Bombs, broken, dirt, drinks, eroded, excitement, G-Land, hole, Kongs, Ledge, Money Trees, ocean, offshore, pumped, raining, river, sank, size, soaked, surf, swell, west, wet
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Sunday, May 23rd, 2010
March 23rd 2010
G-Land still hasn’t picked up. Kimbo and I went through some of the first aid gear he has left here for the camp and taught a few of the lifeguards some different techniques on spinal and broken leg injuries. We have alot of great gear thanks to him! The first aid clinic is starting to get some progress done and should be done by the time quiksilver get here.
Dayna has been giving free yoga lessons down at Joyo’s and a few of the boys participated this morning, it’s so hot but it limbers you up nice for a surf.
I didn’t head out til 3p.m but got some really nice ones. The guys that surfed earlier said the waves were better this arvo than earlier today with some more push and better shape so hopefully that’s a sign the swell is gonna be here tomorrow. Still 3 ft but I want some juice and I feel I’m not the only one. Third birthday this week but happy birthday to Putu!
Bretto
Tags: Birthday, broken, clinic, earlier, first aid, guys, hot, injuries, juice, Kimbo, lifeguards, morning, nice, progress, Putu., quiksilver, spinal, surfed, swell, techniques, tomorrow, waves, yoga
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Friday, June 26th, 2009
Boom! Woke up to a gnarly looking line-up, solid 6-8ft, sets breaking on the bombie. G-Land had done a radical pick up overnight. This swell is not the quality and perfection of last weeks high period swell, but I still had butterflys as a I prepared my 7’8 for (more…)
Tags: 7'8, bombie, broken, butterflys, G-Land, G-Land Bobby's Surf Camp, g-land surf, G-Land Surf Combat, gnarly, Jon Hepler, Launching Pads, photo, Speedies
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