G-LAND … Every day the mercury is rising. So if the trend stays strong, we’ll be surfing in trunks soon enough. It took awhile to get over THE NEED to cover up with rubber, but it won’t take more than a moment to accept it being warm again.
Lulling around in the morning, I didn’t really get the feeling to surf. Blacky and Samson seemed real smiley about heading down to Tigertracks. Supposedly yesterday was real fun down there…shoulder to head high and clean. But the swell backed off a bit. It was about 6-8 foot faces today so it would be pretty small…still fun…but pretty small down in the Bay. Somehow the switch flipped, most likely cause they were amped to go surf. So I flipped from the ‘lulling around’ mode and took the 2 closest guests to us and went down. I grabbed 1 of our 2 longboards that Bobby had Bruce Hansel shape for YOU… 9’8″ 23″ 2 7/8″ …and left the rubber hanging on the drying line.
Chest high, good winds, and only 4 other surfers…coming from RUSSIA. So we had great timing, paddling into a 5 minute wait leading straight into a 40 minute pulse of non-stop waves. We wouldn’t sit for more than 2 minutes MAX!!! The 9’8″ was real fun to trim on.
We got 2 of the 9’8” longies and one 9’0″ stand-up that is 30″ by 4″…MASSIVE.
So the surf looked real fun by the looks of the photos Norris shot. About 6-8 foot faces but a very rare 10-footer set coming through. Some hollow ones, but mostly just playful style waves up at Kongs and Fan Palms. Not too much happening through Money Trees. Very nice winds too!!!
Forecast shows a big swell coming in tomorrow and that’s why there was 32 guests that came in today. We’re using 62 chairs at dinner.